Card 34 · Using Patterns
What the symbols on a pattern mean.
Dressmaking patterns come with many technical words and markings. Here are the ones you’ll see most.
- S.A: seam allowance, usually 1.5cm.
- H.A: hem allowance, usually 3.5–5cm.
- Size grading: lines for each size.
- Notches: where pieces join.
- Darts: shaping at waist, chest, shoulders and hips.
- Fold-line: place on the folded edge of the fabric.
- Cut 2: cut two pieces, a left and a right.
- Grain-line: how to place the pattern on the fabric.
- Lengthen/shorten: where to alter the pattern.

Top tip: One commercial pattern can usually make several sizes. Dashed lines show each numbered size, for example 14. Cut the pattern to the size you need.