There are hundreds of different sewing stitches. The good news? As a beginner, you only need a handful. Most of my beginner makes use just two machine stitches and three hand stitches.
Here are the basic hand stitches and sewing machine stitches worth knowing, what each one is for, and which to learn first.
Basic hand stitches
Even if you sew mostly by machine, you’ll use hand stitches to hold fabric in place, close gaps and finish hems. Learning to sew by hand is also lovely and calm. All you need is a needle, thread and a scrap of fabric.
1. Running stitch
The simplest stitch of all. The needle goes in and out of the fabric in a straight line, making small, even stitches. It’s used for gathering and simple seams. Read more about running stitch.
2. Tacking stitch (basting)
A long, loose running stitch that holds pieces together before you sew them properly. You pull it out afterwards. In America it’s called basting. Use a contrast colour so it’s easy to find and remove.
3. Back stitch
The strongest hand stitch. Each stitch goes back to meet the one before, so it looks like a machine stitch on the front. Use it to repair seams by hand. See how backstitch works.
4. Slip stitch (ladder stitch)
An almost invisible stitch. It closes the gap you leave when you turn a cushion or bag right side out. The thread hides inside the folds of the fabric.
5. Blanket stitch
A decorative stitch that wraps around the edge of fabric. It stops edges fraying and looks lovely on felt and blankets. Here’s more on blanket stitch.
6. Whip stitch (overcast stitch)
Small diagonal stitches over the edge of the fabric. It joins two edges together or stops a raw edge from fraying.
7. Hemming stitch
Tiny stitches that catch just a thread or two of the main fabric, so the hem is almost invisible from the right side. Perfect for skirts and trousers.
For step-by-step pictures of these and more, MasterClass has a clear guide to types of hand sewing stitches.
Sewing machine stitches
Most machines come with lots of stitches, but beginners only need the first two on this list. The rest you’ll learn as you go.
1. Straight stitch
The stitch you’ll use most. It sews seams, hems and top stitching. A medium length, around 2.5mm, suits most fabrics.
2. Zig-zag stitch
A stitch that goes side to side. Sew it along a raw edge to stop fabric fraying if you don’t have an overlocker. It also stretches a little, so it’s useful on stretchy fabrics. Read more about the zigzag stitch.
3. Reverse stitch (back tack)
A few stitches backwards at the start and end of a seam. It locks the stitches so they don’t come undone. Every machine has a reverse lever or button.
4. Top stitch
A straight stitch sewn on the right side of the fabric, close to the edge or seam. It holds things flat and looks neat. You’ll see it on jeans and bag handles.
5. Long stitch (machine tacking)
The longest straight stitch on your machine. It’s used to hold pieces together for a fitting, and for gathering fabric.
6. Stretch stitch
A stitch that bends with stretchy fabrics like jersey, so the seam doesn’t snap when you pull it on.
7. Blind hem stitch
A machine version of the hand hemming stitch. With a special foot, it makes a hem that’s almost invisible on the front.
8. Buttonhole stitch
A dense zig-zag that makes buttonholes. Many machines do it in one or four steps. Leave this one until you’re confident.
What about overlocking?
An overlocker is a separate machine that trims and wraps the edge of fabric in one go, like the seams inside shop-bought clothes. It’s lovely to have, but not essential. A zig-zag stitch does the job while you learn. Find out more about overlocking.
Which stitches should a beginner learn first?
- Straight stitch, with a back tack at each end
- Zig-zag stitch for neatening edges
- Tacking stitch by hand
- Back stitch by hand
- Slip stitch for closing gaps
With those five, you can make every project in my list of 16 easy beginner sewing projects. If you’re still choosing a machine, read my best sewing machine for beginners UK guide. And if you’re just starting out, begin with my simple guide to learning how to sew.
Learn each stitch the Nanna Betty way
Nanna Betty Sewing School has a card for each stitch and technique, with a drawing and a top tip, plus short videos for your phone. Learn one card at a time, then use it straight away in a make that takes 2 hours or less.
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